IN TRANSIT: GETTING AROUND LISBON

WHAT TO DRINK: A bica in Pastelaría Versailles

The beautiful, grand Versailles café is a classy place to drink a tiny cup of the strong coffee the Portuguese love (‘bica’ is the Lisbon name for a small espresso, but if you simply ask for a ‘café’ this is what you’ll get too). There’s a huge selection of small cakes and biscuits. Being outside the center, the place is mostly frequented by local well-groomed ladies and office workers at lunch time.