THE R&K GUIDE TO

LISBON

Lisbon is a calm, compact jewel of cobbled streets and tile-clad buildings on the Tagus estuary, just a short train ride from the sea. Until very recently it had a secretive, forgotten feel. Now, tourism is booming and there’s a confident buzz in the air, but the banalities of globalization are still less evident here than elsewhere. Lisbon is a place to wander the backstreets, climb the many hills, take in the views, and sample Portugal’s wildly underrated food, wine, and music.

WALKING TOUR: ALCÂNTARA

Lisbon’s recent emergence as one of Europe’s most popular destinations has changed the face of the city. But the look and feel of pre-hype Lisbon lives on in some pockets, particularly the western waterfront neighborhood of Alcântara, sandwiched between the highbrow Lapa neighborhood, Lisbon’s diplomatic quarter, and the riverside visitor-magnet Belém.

Quick Hits

WHAT TO EAT

Makoufe at an outdoor table at Cantinnho

Aziz, tucked away in a back street in Mouraria, is perhaps the friendliest and most popular Mozambican restaurant in Lisbon; its outside tables nearly always packed.

Makoufe at an outdoor table at Cantinnho

Aziz, tucked away in a back street in Mouraria, is perhaps the friendliest and most popular Mozambican restaurant in Lisbon; its outside tables nearly always packed.

Makoufe at an outdoor table at Cantinnho

Aziz, tucked away in a back street in Mouraria, is perhaps the friendliest and most popular Mozambican restaurant in Lisbon; its outside tables nearly always packed.

Quick Hits

WHAT TO DRINK

Makoufe at an outdoor table at Cantinnho

Aziz, tucked away in a back street in Mouraria, is perhaps the friendliest and most popular Mozambican restaurant in Lisbon; its outside tables nearly always packed.

Makoufe at an outdoor table at Cantinnho

Aziz, tucked away in a back street in Mouraria, is perhaps the friendliest and most popular Mozambican restaurant in Lisbon; its outside tables nearly always packed.

Makoufe at an outdoor table at Cantinnho

Aziz, tucked away in a back street in Mouraria, is perhaps the friendliest and most popular Mozambican restaurant in Lisbon; its outside tables nearly always packed.

Quick Hits

WHAT TO SEE

Makoufe at an outdoor table at Cantinnho

Aziz, tucked away in a back street in Mouraria, is perhaps the friendliest and most popular Mozambican restaurant in Lisbon; its outside tables nearly always packed.

Makoufe at an outdoor table at Cantinnho

Aziz, tucked away in a back street in Mouraria, is perhaps the friendliest and most popular Mozambican restaurant in Lisbon; its outside tables nearly always packed.

Makoufe at an outdoor table at Cantinnho

Aziz, tucked away in a back street in Mouraria, is perhaps the friendliest and most popular Mozambican restaurant in Lisbon; its outside tables nearly always packed.

FEATURES FROM LISBON

Tejo Bar in Lisbon, where there is nothing borrowed about the melancholy.

He has spent 44 of his 63 years behind a counter serving the libation.

Tejo Bar in Lisbon, where there is nothing borrowed about the melancholy.

He has spent 44 of his 63 years behind a counter serving the libation.